Hi and thank you so much for coming "here" to check out my blog.

For various reasons, I've moved my active blogging to here:

www.ThruMikesViewfinder.com

I will leave the past posts here just in case there are some that you would like to revisit,

but all new posting will be at the new address.

Thanks again,

Mike 

I recently visited my Dad in Oklahoma and while there, I took a few photos. In this case, I had Auto Port. Framing selected.  Menu -> Camera -> Auto Port. Framing -> Auto.

For this to even be selectable, Face Detection must be on.  Then when a face is detected in the image, the camera will create two images; one normal (like you framed it) and another where the camera has made a "creative" decision on how this particular image should be cropped.

The results aren't terrible and can even yield a nice, if not optimum result.  Sometimes it even changes the layout of your image, i.e., creating a portrait oriented image from what was originally in landscape view (and vice versa).

The other thing that happens is that, after the camera crops the photo, it then upsizes it back to a normal size of 4912x3264 pixels.

The first image above (left) is my crop.  

To the right, you see first the camera's crop and then, below, the original image.  Personally, for this photo, I thought the camera cropped a bit too tight on the left side of his face.

Even if you're not a fan of how the camera does this, it never hurts to see other ways to make your portrait photos more interesting.

BTW, this feature is also available on the Nex-5R.

Don't forget the Complete Guide to Sony's Nex-5R and 6 Cameras is available at FriedmanArchives.com.

These are the three most recent releases from The Friedman Archives Press.

Go to SonyAlphaLab to see my full review of the Gariz Genuine Leather Half Case for the NEX-7.

In a nutshell, I love the case for it's high quality, looks, ability to protect my camera, and also because even with it on, I can still access the battery and SD card!

I got this Camera case from LoveCases, an online company based in the UK that offers all kinds of camera bags and Camera cases for a variety of different cameras. Go take a look - I bet you can find one of these for your camera, too.

I've just written a new blog post at www.SonyAlphaLab.com about customizing the Sony NEX-6.

Go take a look and maybe we can share some ideas about how to best optimize this camera for different situations.

Thanks again to Jay Hermann at the "Lab" for giving me the opportunity to participate!

And here are some recent images from the Sony NEX-6:

Since I first published this a month ago, it's become apparent that there is still some confusion regarding the Sony Bracket Pro App. So, let me clarify a bit.

The Bracket Pro app is not designed for HDR work, since it attempts to maintain a normal exposure while changing shutter speeds in the Shutter Bracketing function. Depending on your selected shutter speed and range of bracketing, the camera may have to adjust not only aperture, but ISO as well. The other three "iterations" of Bracket Pro work the same way, always "trying" to give a normal exposure. However, the camera will honor the selected settings even if it means that one or more of the shots may be either under or over exposed.

The normal bracketing function on the Drive menu (or Auto HDR) is the place to be for HDR images.

I don't know about you, but this screen on my Sony NEX-5R really had me scratching my head for a while. There's a lot of new information presented there and, as far as I can find, Sony has provided "zero" documentation about how to interpret all of this. So what else is new, huh.

Sony's new NEX cameras, the 5R and 6, have Wifi capability which gives you the option of downloading applications for your camera directly from the PlayMemories App Store online. One of these intriguing new apps is called Bracket Pro and gives you the ability to bracket shutter speed, aperture, focus, and flash on/off while properly exposing all of the images (sort of).

In the above image I've selected the Shutter Speed Bracketing option and came to this rather confusing screen. I used to think that Histograms were technical, but they're a piece of cake compared to this! :-)

After much trial and error, I've come to the conclusion that the best advice regarding this screen is to just make sure the #2 and #3 points on the orange graph do not touch the upper and lower edges. When those points are mid-range, you should get 3 properly exposed images. If you take either point to the edge, then you will most likely end up with at least one under or over-exposed photo.

I'm currently collaborating with Gary Friedman (www.FriedmanArchives.com), working on a book that will describe in detail every function and feature on these latest Sony NEX cameras. If you're interested, be sure and drop by Gary's website, click on the 5R/6 image and we'll let you know when the book is ready.

There is already a wealth of information about Sony NEX cameras at SonyAlphaLab.com, and I've been given the enviable opportunity to participate.

So, my sincere thanks to Jason Hermann who owns and runs SonyAlphaLab for this chance to do more of what I like best - taking photos and writing about the experience. :-)

As you can see from the website header above, the "Lab" is filled with Reviews, News, and Tutorials. Plus it has some excellent and up-to-date guides to the available Sony cameras, lenses, lens adapters, and much more. If you're into Sony Alpha/NEX cameras (or thinking about it), you will find many of the answers to your questions right there in one easy location. Oh, and be sure and check out the Forum … it's an active group of Sony camera pros and enthusiasts sharing information about photography and Sony equipment.

For my first post at SonyAlphaLab, I wrote a short introduction to the new PlayMemories Camera Apps, sharing some tips for getting started with the account setup and download process.

The Sony NEX-5R and NEX-6 allow you to download applications right to your new NEX, expanding the functionality of the camera in several fun new ways.

Hopefully the information I've provided there will make for a painless experience, helping you to navigate this brand new feature! :-)

If you've read this before, you may want to take another look, I've made some changes to simplify and be clearer on a couple of points.

Sony-NEX-5R ready to shoot a copper pot with the iPhone wirelessly tethered. 

So you've got a brand new Sony NEX-5R (or NEX-6) and you own a smart phone.  Now, I bet you're wanting to try out that "Smart Remote Control" thing by tethering your camera to your iPhone. This is such a cool capability … I know it was one of the first things I did after getting my NEX-5R. Below is an excerpt (draft) from a book I'm working on about the NEX-5R and NEX-6, explaining how to get this "tethering" operation setup.

---------------------------

Once you've downloaded the PlayMemories app to your phone and the Smart Remote Control app to your camera, the next step is to setup a network connection between the iPhone and NEX. First, on the camera, select the Smart Remote Control app. Next, on the iPhone, go to Settings > Wi-Fi, where you will select the camera and enter a password provided for you by the camera (you should only have to do this once). With the camera "network" selected, start the PlayMemories Mobile app on your phone and soon the phone should see what the camera sees! Cool!

There will be a typical phone shutter button showing and a "Wrench" icon. Push the shutter button and the camera takes the photo, saving it to your phone (if you choose to). Press the Wrench icon and you are taken to a small menu where you can adjust the exposure compensation +/- 3EV, set a 2 Second timer, and choose between "Review, Save Image", "Review Only", and "Off".

·       Review, Save Image allows you to review the image on your phone while also saving it to your phone.

·       Review Only just lets you review the image, but does not save it to your phone. Don’t worry, it is still saved to the memory card on the camera.

·       Off lets the phone get ready to shoot the next image with viewing or saving.

One nice thing is that you can switch back and forth between using the phone shutter button and the camera shutter button and the connection should still be fine.

Unfortunately, a "not-so-nice" thing is that every time you leave the app you first have to go back to Wi-Fi Settings, reselect the Camera, and back to your phone to reestablish the network connection and then restart the PlayMemories Mobile app.

I did get the connection to work up to a distance of about 30 feet (line-of-sight). On the down side, the whole operation, while a very cool capability, is also a bit wonky in use. Sometimes it took several tries to connect even from just a few feet. And if you leave the camera app at all, you have to go through the connection process again - except for the network password which it does remember.

Note: The camera got very warm while left in Smart Remote Control for several minutes and it seemed to drain the battery faster - nothing scientific in this - just an impression.

After the initial setup is complete, here are some basic steps for getting back into the Smart Remote Control mode: (These are iPhone instructions.)

·       On the camera, go to MENU > APPLICATION > Smart Remote Control.

·       Go to your Phone Settings > Wi-Fi > DIRECT-(series of letters)

·       Now, wait for your phone to recognize the camera network and select it.

·       On your phone, open the PlayMemories Mobile app.

·       In a few seconds the phone should see what the camera sees.

Shoot away! :-)

Six weeks of waiting has finally paid off. My new Sony Alpha NEX-5R arrived yesterday, thanks to my local camera store, Mike's Camera. Unfortunately I was really busy with a garage sale the last two days and between lack of time and lack of sleep, I haven't had much of a chance to play with the new "toy". Usually, I try to get my cameras in traditional black, but this time I wanted the first available and I got the silver model - WoW, it's gorgeous!

I got the battery charged and took a few quick shots to make sure it was working properly, grabbed some "product shots" today, and now it's time to wind down with a glass of wine. But before I go, I'll share just my initial impressions.

The Fast Hybrid AF is one of the BIG deals with this camera and it is noticeably faster. So far, it only works with a few lenses but at least the kit lens (the 18-55 OSS) that comes with the camera has the firmware upgrade and is in that group. I'm expecting / hoping that Sony will continue to roll out the firmware upgrades for other existing lenses so they are compatible with the Phase-Detection AF.

The included flash (shown) is not a pop-up but a screw-in and works just fine, plus it has a low profile when lowered to the "off" position, parallel to the lens. Here, it's shown in the up and ready position. One quick note: the LCD screen which normally rotates up to 180 degrees for viewing from the front is limited to about 135 degrees with the flash installed.

My next project is to check out the new Wifi capabilities and download some apps, upload some photos (wirelessly), and try to get it tethered to my iPhone. That is REALLY going to cut into my "football Sunday", tomorrow, but will definitely be more fun! :-)

Have a great evening and check back soon for more.

Sony NEX-5R, 18-55 OSS, and some light processing in Lightroom 4 to bring out the shadows.

Gary Friedman at FriedmanArchives.com has finally released his new book detailing the terrific Sony RX100.

This camera has received rave reviews around the world and many have labeled it as the World's Best Point-and-Shoot camera. I think this is well deserved praise. :-) The camera has a much larger than normal P&S sensor, labeled as a 1" sized sensor. But in the strange world of sensor sizing, it's not really that big. It also captures 20 Megapixels and produces beautiful images.

Another thing to really like about this camera is the ease of use. Sony has done a great job of setting it up so you can customize it such that you will rarely need to go into the menu system. However, these customization options along with Sony's normal extensive modes, effects, and styles do introduce a certain level of complexity. This is where Gary's book comes in so handy.

Gary has used and written about many of Sony's digital cameras over the last several years and brings a deep understanding of their various modes and functions. But he puts this knowledge into such an easy reading and enjoyable style that it actually makes the learning fun! In this book, there are over 400 pages of detailed information and in-depth coverage of the RX100's features, plus he shares a wealth of general photographic knowledge and techniques acquired over years as a professional photographer.

The Ebook version is in full-color and is immediately downloadable as either a .pdf file for your computer or iPad, or as a .mobi file for your Kindle. The price is $21.45 and well worth it.

So head on over to FriedmanArchives.com and place your order, then grab your RX100 and get ready to learn how to make this little beauty purr. :-)

Today, I read a post by my favorite photo blogger, Kirk Tuck. He writes often and very thoughtfully tackles some of the more current and relevant topics regarding modern photography. As a long time pro, I feel that he has things to say that we should listen to. The post I read today was about a photo walk he did, just shooting black and white with the NEX-7, and it inspired me.

I've been a 99.5% color shooter for most of my life and have mostly just disregarded monotone. So, today I decided to just shoot a few straight black and white images letting the camera do the processing. Another thing I do is to almost always shoot in RAW and what surprised me about the NEX-7 is that it will shoot b&w while set to RAW … sort of.

This is our little Maltese, Sophie and she never likes to have her picture taken. Usually, she just turns her head the other way when I approach with a camera. :-)

Anyway, what I found is that if I set the NEX-7 to RAW and the Creative Style to B&W, you see B&W on the screen and in the viewfinder. After you capture the image, playback also shows the image in B&W. However, when uploaded to a computer (Mac using Lightroom 4), you see a color RAW file. Very interesting! :-) Then, I tried RAW + JPG and guess what? The camera still shows B&W in the viewfinder (and LCD) and during playback, but when uploaded to the computer you have a color RAW and a B&W JPG image. Very cool! "So what?", you say

For an inexperienced B&W shooter like me, it allows me to see the world in B&W through my cameras viewfinder both before and after the shot. I think this will be an invaluable aid for learning to "see in BW". But wait … there's more.

As you've most likely already figured out, this technique (setup) gives you the best of both worlds. When you get the image to your computer, you have identical images except that one is color and one is B&W. That's nice, BUT, what it really does for you is give you much more editing control if you decide to go with the B&W version. Just convert the color to B&W and all of that color information is still in the file, allowing for much more latitude in tweaking the image by selectively darkening (or lightening) each of the main colors - something you can't do with the pure B&W image.

I know, for many of you this is a pure waste of memory card and hard drive space. You take the photo in color and then convert it to B&W in the computer if you want. But for many photographers, it's more difficult to know what will look good in B&W and what won't. So I think this can help in that learning process.

According to Gary Friedman (www.FriedmanArchives.com), Sony's RX100 is "the best point-and-shoot on the planet."  Many others have agreed in blog posts and reviews all around the internet.

It comes with the largest sensor of any p&s, so far. It's called a 1" sensor although it's really not quite that big. But then, Sony packs in 20 Megapixels and all of the great in-camera features they're known for in the NEX line like Auto HDR, Hand-Held Twilight, and their excellent Panorama Mode. Plus, they've attached a Carl Zeiss lens that is fast when set for wide angle at f/1.8!

There are certainly smaller point-and-shoot cameras available but none with this kind of capability and functionality. For a size comparison, check the next photo where I have the RX100 sitting on an iPhone. It's a bit thicker but actually smaller in terms of length and width.

I recently read somewhere, "Photography is a disease for which there is no known cure." ( - Author Unknown)  I know I'm afflicted by it and I sure hope it isn't fatal . . . . . aside from my wife wanting to kill me for exceeding my photography budget! :-) 

A couple of days ago I "reacquired" the Sony NEX-7. There's a lot to love there:  A beautiful, black, metal body; 24 Megapixel APS-C sensor; 10 frames-per-second; Terrific EVF (Electronic ViewFinder); and the Tri-Navi control system to give you almost instant access to many of the camera's functions. This camera is very customizable with several buttons that can be re-configured to setup this camera to work the way you work.

So, many of you may not want your camera setup exactly like I do and that's okay. We're all individuals and approach photography with different goals and techniques. But, if you're new to the NEX-7 or maybe just struggling with the overwhelming customization options, maybe this will help. Here's how I have mine setup, at least for now.

First, in the Main Menu, go to Setup and about halfway down you'll find the Function Settings. These are the settings that are accessible using the Navigation Button (next to the shutter button) and adjustable with the two top Control Dials and the Control Wheel (Tri-Navi Controls).

• Function Settings 1 > Custom Settings (we'll set these in a minute)
• Function Settings 2 > Picture Effect Settings
• Function Settings 3 > Creative Style Settings
• Function Settings 4 > White Balance Settings
• Custom Settings 1  > Metering Mode
• Custom Settings 2  > DRO/Auto HDR (Having Auto HDR and Quality in Custom Settings means they are both accessible at the same place. And since I often shoot in RAW, this makes it easy to quick change to JPEG when I want to use Auto HDR.)
• Custom Settings 3  > Quality
• Function Settings Start > Previous (this just takes me back to whatever I had last changed)

Next, with Soft Key A, go back into the Setup Menu, and select Custom Key Settings. These will change the function of several of the buttons on the back of the camera.

• AF/MF Button > AF/MF control
• Right Key Setting > Flash Comp. (flash exposure compensation)
• Soft Key B Setting > Shoot Mode
• Soft Key C Setting > Custom
• Custom 1 > Autofocus Mode
• Custom 2 > Autofocus Area
• Custom 3 > Flash Mode
• Custom 4 > Smile Shutter
• Custom 5 > Face Detection

With this configuration, I almost never need to go into the camera's extensive menu system to make a change while I'm shooting. Please comment and share with us how you have your NEX-7 setup - and why - so we all have the chance to learn another way of doing things.

In a recent blog post, I mentioned that I'm working with Gary Friedman (www.friedmanarchives.com) to put out a comprehensive manual about the new Sony NEX-5R and NEX-6, shipping respectively in October and November. I got the NEX-7 so I could stay current on the various features that all of these NEX cameras share and to reacquaint myself with the EVF that is going to be on the NEX-6. If you would like to be notified when this book is released, just go to Gary's website and click on the F3/5R link. (I'm sure it will be updated soon to reflect the 5R and 6.)

I really like the NEX-7, but it's not perfect. In 3 short days of use, I've unintentionally activated the movie button at least 10 times! Sony, PLEASE give us a firmware upgrade so we can deactivate this poorly placed and overly sensitive movie button!

The EVF is wonderful in "most" cases. It's seems to be just a bit on the contrasty side and in very low light is almost useless. If you want to shoot the stars, it's mostly a guessing game. The viewfinder is filled with red noise to the extent that you might only be able to make out a very few of just the brightest stars in the sky. For normal lighting though, I love the WYSIWYG display showing almost exactly how the image will look after the shot. Now that's something that an optical viewfinder just can't do.

UPDATE: After, Sony announced the NEX-6, we decided to change the focus of the next book. Since the NEX-5R and NEX-6 are so much more alike and share the new sensor, built-in Wifi, and PlayMemories Camera apps, the F3 is being dropped and the new book will concentrate solely on the 5R and 6. Our sincere apologies to everyone who expressed an interest in the book because of the NEX-F3.

Well, I did it again … ANOTHER new camera! But, this time, I actually have a good reason for it and it's not just one of those "impulse purchases" that I've been known to make. (More on the "good reason", later.)

This time it's the recently released Sony NEX-F3, a nice step up from the NEX-3 and C3, but still with many of the same great features we've come to love and expect from Sony. Of course, there's a fair share of new and updated features, too, and those have been extensively written about in numerous reviews across the internet.

One of those really nice new features is the new LCD screen with the ability to rotate upward by 180 degrees, allowing you to see it from directly in front of the camera. It takes it a step further by automatically going into a portrait mode and setting a 3 second timer for you. “Selfies” (self-portraits) just got a whole lot easier! While it can still tilt downwards, Sony has reduced this to only 13 degrees, and many reviewers have complained about how that restricts its usefulness in overhead shooting. But, I beg to differ.

Gary Friedman had the brilliant idea to just put the screen out at about 45 degrees, turn the camera upside down, hold it over your head and shoot away! The camera actually knows which way is up and will even orient the photo correctly for you on the screen during shooting and during playback. Smart … the camera and Gary! :-)

Now, about that "good reason" to buy this camera. But, first, a little background.

Cameras these days are so packed with electronics and the cool features that those provide for us, but that means they are also considerably more complex than our film cameras of the past. These complexities often need some explanation, however, camera manufacturer's manuals are notoriously light … in both weight and content. To address these deficiencies, a Pro photographer by the name of Gary Friedman started writing complete camera manuals with detailed instructions and thorough explanations to clear up those questions we all have about our new cameras. He writes mostly about the newer Sony digital cameras and his books can be found at: http://www.friedmanarchives.com. He has an engaging writing style and includes lots of example photos and illustrations, so go take a look.

This year alone, Sony has shipped at least six new DSLR/Interchangeable Lens cameras with several more due to be released, soon. Needless to say, Gary is getting overwhelmed by the sheer volume of work to be done. So, Gary has hired me to collaborate with him on his upcoming, soon to be released, book about Sony's new NEX-F3 and NEX-5R.

I'm very excited to be included in a project like this, so thank you, Gary, for the opportunity.

For all the specs on the F3 (and just about any other camera, too), I highly recommend DPreview.com. They do thorough testing and write complete reviews about most new cameras.

The New Sony NEX-5R on the left, with the NEX-6 on the right

The last couple of weeks have been amazingly busy for Sony! They've announced at least 5 new cameras, 3 new lenses, and a host of supporting products and accessories. Probably the most important of these announcements were the Sony A99 and RX1, both with Full Frame 24 Mp sensors. But at $2800 each they're quite pricey, so I'll leave those discussions to someone else.

The more interesting (and more affordable) of the new announcements are the two cameras pictured above: the Sony NEX-5R and NEX 6. What sets these cameras apart is their new sensor: 16 Mp with phase detection AF pixels built right in to the sensor AND contrast detection AF. Sony calls it a "Fast Hybrid AutoFocus". Apparently, the camera uses phase detection to quickly get the focus "close" and then switches to contrast detection to refine it. Sony says it is quicker and more accurate than the contrast only AF used in previous NEX cameras.

The other really BIG news is the built-in WiFi which enables these cameras to connect with the internet, a smart phone or tablet, and your computer. Some of the immediate advantages of this are the ability to upload images directly to another device or even Facetime, plus Sony's PlayMemories apps which will allow you to control the camera from your smart phone (currently iOS and Android). You will also be able to install apps on the camera to add functionality like new picture effects and more versatile bracketing. Now, that is something!

If you're considering either of these cameras, be sure and go to www.friedmanarchives.com and register your interest in the new book coming soon. It will be a detailed tutorial of every feature and function on both cameras.

For all of the specs and more, go to Sony's website.

There will be more to come, so stay tuned! 

Legendary publisher David Kilpatrick has put together a new photography magazine that promises to be more of what we expect from a quality photographic publication. It will be a quarterly subscription-only magazine with the first issue coming out in September, 2012. It is to be edited by David Kilpatrick in Scotland, with US Associate Editor Gary Friedman  in Los Angeles editing and writing.

From my association with Mr. Friedman, I know that he has a deep understanding of not only the creative photographic process, but also the underlying technological issues that confront today's digital photographer. I have great confidence that this will be The magazine that "returns to the foundations of good photography" and helps us become inspired photographers once again.

For more information, and to subscribe, go to the CameraCraft website.

I like this Chili's, our local rendition of the national chain restaurant. Good beer, good food, a cozy ambience with plenty of sports TV's, and a bunch of really nice people working there make for a pleasant evening. We go here frequently to enjoy an informal cocktail after work and usually a light meal of some of their appetizers.

A few days ago, as we were heading home after dinner, I turned around and snapped a quick photo of the front of the restaurant. The lighting was soft and the clouds were gray and not really that threatening. When I downloaded this photo, I wasn't particularly happy with the result, but decided to work it a bit in Lightroom 4.

First, I used the Color Panel, HSL setting, using the Luminance Slider tool by clicking on various parts of the image and dragging to darken the clouds and lighten the front of the building. But this seemed to limit my corrections to what made for a more interesting image but not the drama I was wanting.

So, a quick "Edit in Viveza" to export the image to Nik's wonderful Viveza software, where I used some control points to add more drama to the clouds and further lighten up the building's facade.

Finally, back to Lightroom 4 for some noise reduction and I ended up with the photo you see at the top.

My Olympus OM-D E-M5 did a great job setting the exposure for this shot. While the raw image was a bit flat looking, it was exposed just right to maintain detail in all areas of the photo, allowing my software to bring out those details.

"Two Guys at the Bar" (Key Line Filter)

Some of the reasons I've really enjoyed shooting the Olympus OM-D E-M5 are it's Picture Modes and Art Filters. In the past, it's seemed like a bit of a hassle to select these on other cameras, plus I always thought I could easily replicate them in post processing. The OM-D changes the game in some important ways.

1. Selecting any of these modes is so easy. The Art Filter selection is on the Mode Dial right next to iAuto, and the Super Control Panel (SCP) makes it very easy to select your desired Picture Mode.
2. Again, most of these modes and filters can be replicated with post processing software, except possibly the Art Filter I like the best, the Key Line Filter. It may be possible to copy this, but I don't know how. :-)

Another thing that is great about the Art Filter Mode is it's ability to automatically bracket the desired filters. The last selection in the Art Filter list is ART BKT. Select this and then either push the right arrow key or rotate the front dial and you're taken to a list of all the filters available. Once there, you can select just the ones you want (for me, it's usually the Sepia, Key Line, and Monochrome filters) and your next shot will give you 4 images (*maybe 5): a normal color RAW file, and JPG's of the Sepia, Key Line, and Monochrome - automatically. It does take just a few seconds for the camera to do this processing, but if you only select a few it doesn't take that long.

(*NOTE: Art Filter Bracketing may also give you an extra unprocessed color JPG.)

The nice thing about it is you still have the RAW file in case you're not happy with any of the Art Filter images. So go out and be "creative" … you don't have a thing to lose!

There is one slight problem I recently came across for us Adobe users (which is just about all of us) that involves using the Picture Modes. For instance, if I select Monochrome and take the shot, I will see a nice monochrome image in the camera during playback. However, once it's imported into Lightroom 4, you will only have the normal, color RAW file. Somehow, the monochrome information is getting lost in translation. The Adobe Forums suggest a workaround for this … duh … do the monochrome version AFTER the image is imported. Of course - we know we can do this, but it defeats the entire purpose of getting the b&w straight out of the camera.

I found a better way: If you really want monochrome from the Picture Mode, then just select RAW+JPG on the SCP and you will get a normal color RAW and your Monochrome JPG when you import into LR. The other, possibly easier workaround is to just select Monochrome as one of the Art Filters you want to bracket.

"Summer Street" (Key Line Filter)

"Create" (Monochrome Art Filter)

"Vintage look for a store" (Sepia Art Filter)

I've been looking for a timer app for the iPhone / iPad for two years. I had one particular capability in mind but couldn't find it on any of the other applications. Finally, I've found what is the perfect timing app for our iPhones. (IMO)

The main thing I've been wanting in a timer is for it to start counting up when it reached the end of the set time … so you would know how long it's been since it elapsed. Well, Chronology does that and more.

It can run multiple timers at once and they can be either countdown or countup timers. Plus, you can designate the timer to loop, i.e. to sound the alarm and then start over.

From the photo, you can see I've designated a timer for boiling 2 quarts of water, a 10-minute timer, a 5-minute timer (in the photo, it shows that it reached the end and started counting up), a looping 2-minute timer, and a countup timer (stopwatch).

Of course, you'll find Chronology at the iTunes App Store but you can also find more info at the developers website, Treeness.com.

It's compatible with the iPhone, iPad, and iPod Touch.

So go get it and have the "Time of your Life"! :-)

Exposure bracketing is a well known and widely used technique that many of us use to increase the dynamic range of an image over what can be done with a single exposure. For some time, I've been reading that you can use a similar technique with depth of field (DOF) by focus bracketing several images and then combining them into an image with greater DOF than would otherwise be possible. So … I finally decided to give it a try.

The techniques I used were outlined by the Digital Photography School in a post you can see HERE, so I won't go into the details. However, I was surprised at how easy it is - only about a 5 step process in Photoshop and I've read it's even easier with Photoshop Elements.

The top photo is the final result after taking 3 images, focusing on each bird in turn. Just for comparison, here is the first photo in the series:

Then, just for fun, a few days later I decided to try something a little wacky. I only took two photos, focusing first on an object close to the camera and then on another object further away. I purposely did not focus on a third object in between. I was wondering if the technique would work to do something a little more creative by having near and far in focus with something in the middle out of focus.

Yes, I understand that this is unusual in that our human eyes never see that way, but I thought there could be a time when, for creative purposes, it might work … and it DID!

The image below is the result of that unconventional experiment.